Processed interlining for use in garment

ABSTRACT

THIS INVENTION RELATES TO A PROCESSED INTERLINING FOR USE IN A GARMENT, SAID PROCESSED INTERLINING BEING ADAPTED TO FREELY PRODUCE ALL FORMS OF SWELLING REQUIRED OF THE GARMENT IN AN OUTER FABRIC OF THE GARMENT BY USE OF A SINGLE SHEET OF PROCESSED INTERLINING BY FORMING A PLURALITY OF TRANSVERSE SLITS IN SPACED ROWS ONE ABOVE ANOTHER THEREIN AND LEAVING SAID SLITS CUT OPEN IN THE PROCESSED INTERLINING.

J n 1971 TOSHIHIRO MORlWAKl 3,535,545

PROCESSED INTERLINING FOR USE IN GARMENT 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed March12, 1969 FIG.

FIG. 2

IIIIIIII" IIII'II') IIIII'I' l M W M 7. 7 4 0 1 wi m M kn I June 22,v1971 TOSHIHIRO MORIWAKI 3,535,645

PROCESSED INTERLINING FOR USE INGARMENT Filed March 12, 1969 sSheets-Sheet 2 :J r T j N In 111/ (/5!!! 70/? %SH/////?O fl/OR/ M14 NIZ'Yf.

June 22, 1971 TOSHIHIRO MQRIWAKI I 5 55 I PROCESSED INTERLINING LFOR USEIN 'QARMENT Filed March 1969 Sheets-Sheet 5 Fl G. 6 F I G. 7 v (PriorArt) 9 Y 8" FIG. 8'

(Prior Art) [N VIIN'IUR.

755 H/ /60 WHK/ United States Patent Gee 3,585,645 PROCESSED INTERLININGFOR USE IN GARMENT Toshihiro Moriwaki, Suita-shi, Osaka-fu, Japan,assignor to Kabushiki Kaisha Sugiyama, Osaka-fu, Japan Filed Mar. 12,1969, Ser. No. 806,396 Claims priority, application Japan, Mar. 30,1968, 43/25,672; Aug. 7, 1968, 43/56,046; Dec. 11, 1968, 43/90,807

Int. Cl. A41d 27/02 US. Cl. 2-272 12 Claims ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSUREThis invention relates to a processed interlining for use in a garment,said processed interlining being adapted to freely produce all forms ofswelling required of the garment in an outer fabric of the garment byuse of a single sheet of processed interlining by forming a plurality oftransverse slits in spaced rows one above another therein and leavingsaid slits cut open in the processed interlining.

This invention relates to a processed interlining of a garment intendedto reinforce the garment in the front and improve it in appearance bysewing the interlining to the backside of an outer fabric of thegarment, such as mens suit, womens dress, childrens wear, etc. and moreparticularly to a processed interlining capable of expressing a freebody contour by giving a swelling of desired height to the outer fabricby forming slits extending only laterally in a single sheet ofinterlining.

Referring to the described type of processed interlining in conventionaluse with reference to FIGS. 7 and 8 in which is illustrated an exampleof the processed interlining P used in the front of mens suit, theprocessed interlining P comprises a base interlining A cut into thedesired size and backside interlinings C and D sewn to the backside ofthe base interlining A for a reinforcing purpose, and when thisprocessed interlining P is sewn to an outer fabric (not shown) of thesame size as the interlining P, it is a general practice to form darts Bin suitable places of the base interlining A along the longitudinaldarts of the outer fabric in order to give suitable swelling to thebreast portion of the outer fabric. In the darts B of a prior art typeprocessed interlining, as shown in FIG. 7, slits b chiefly extendinglongitudinally are formed at specified points of the base interlining A,i.e. at points corresponding to the darts of the outer fabric and sewnat b by a zigzag sewing machine in the state of the fabric on thisportion being stitched up, and as shown in FIG. 8, a backsideinterlining C having darts B formed therein in the same manner as saidinterlining A and a backside interlining D having no dart formed thereinare respectively placed on and sewn integrally to the backside of thebase interlining A.

Meantime, it has been a current practice with garment makers thatgarment making is divided between those who specialize in cutting andsewing and those who specialize in the manufacture of interlinings P andthat accordingly the processed interlinings P are generally sold bymakers different from the garment makers and who exclusively makevarious interlinings adapted to dilferent body contours and the garmentmakers place an order with the interlining makers for various processedinterlinings.

Since the processed interlining P of a conventional type is of theconstruction described and is placed on the market route described, theswelling formed in the processed interlining by darts B naturallybecomes definite in shape and it becomes utterly impossible to producemore of swelling effect than is beforehand fixedly formed in PatentedJune 22, 1971 the processed interlining P in sewing the interlining toan outer fabric by use of the processed interlining, and accordingly thegarment makers feel the inconvenience that they have to place a specialorder with the interlining makers for a processed interlining of acontour adapted to the form of swelling needed each time. Furthermore,the darts B are beforehand fixed also in position, and accordingly whenthe processed interlining is sewn to the outer fabric, a baseinterlining A and the outer fabric must be squared to each other at twopoints of a shoulder portion or collarbone portion and darts B On thispoint also not only a multiplicity of sizes of processed interliningsare required but, as described, the processed interlining P of a knowntype makes it necessary to form darts both in the base interlining A andin a backside interlining C and to apply sewing b to the darts, thusinvolving the disadvantage that making of the whole of an interlining isrendered troublesome, and that moreover the frequent use of interliningsformed chiefly of cotton yarns as warp shrinks the interlining itself inthe direction of warp by repeated laundering, thereby bringing an outerfabric itself out of shape.

In short, since the known type interlining itself is of a ready-madetype while an outer fabric of a garment is of an order-made type,garment makers have to keep a large stock of processed interliningsadapted for a multiplicity of contours in order to form order-madeswelling by sewing the interlining to the outer fabric. In this way theyhave to put up with such fatal inconveniences and other disadvantagesdescribed in conjunction with the manufacture of the interlining itselfand which take shape during use.

A primary object of this invention therefore is to provide a usefulprocessed interlining capable of freely producing the swelling of theouter fabric of a garment at all times by use of a single sheet ofinterlining.

Another object of the invention is to provide a processed interlining inwhich the mere making of slits can dispense with darts in theinterlining and hence making of the whole of the interlining is madeextremely easy.

Another object of the invention is to provide a processed interliningthat can dispense with all that is necessary for interlining operationfor sewing an interlining to an outer fabric of a garment except forsquaring the interlining with the outer fabric on a shoulder portionalone, thus facilitating sewing operation.

Still another object of the invention is to provide a processedinterlining that is free from shrinking longitudinally of theinterlining and thus does not bring a garment out of shape after a longlapse of time or by absorption of water even when cotton or other yarnshaving relatively high shrinkability by water are used as warp.

These and other objects and advantages of the invention will become moreapparent from the following description taken in conjunction with theaccompanying drawings in which:

FIG. 1 is a front view showing a processed interlining in one form ofthe invention;

FIG. 2 is an enlarged sectional view taken along the line II of FIG. 1;

FIG. 3 is a front view showing the state of a processed interliningbeing slightly extended in the upper and lower directions thereof fromthe position shown in FIG. 1;

FIG. 4 is a rear view of the interlining shown in FIG. 3 and thebackside interlining of which is in part cut away;

FIG. 5 is a perspective view showing the state of the processedinterlining of the invention of FIG. 1 being sewn to the outer fabric ofa garment;

FIG. 6 is a front view showing a processed interlining in another formof the invention;

3 FIG. 7 is a front view of a processed interlining of a conventionaltype;

FIG. 8 is an enlarged sectional view taken along the line IIII of FIG.7; and

FIG. 9 is a front view showing another form of the processed interliningof the invention.

As apparent from the drawings, the processed interlining of theinvention comprises transverse slits suitably formed in spaced rows oneabove another in a base interlining instead of the darts that haveconventionally been formed, said slits not being stitched up but beingleft cut open with the base interlining sewn to the processedinterlining. That is to say, FIGS. 1 through 4 show by way of example anembodiment of a processed interlining for use in the front of a garmentsimilar to that of a conventional type. The processed interlining 9shown as the embodiment comprises a base interlining 1 sewn integrallyto backside interlinings 2, 3 and 3 by stitches 4 said interlining 1being shown as an example in which a conventional interlining woven ofwar 7 and weft 8 is used, said Warp 7 being chiefly cotton and said weft8 being wool, chemical synthetic fibers, etc. The numerals 2 and 3designate backside interlinings placed on the backside of a breastportion 11 for keeping transverse tension and they are sewn integrallyto the base interlining 1 so as to be interfacially slidable to somedegree with respect to the base interlining 1 by loose sewing in theform of stitches 4 The numeral 3 indicates a backside interlining forreinforcement such as a piece of bias sleek cloth placed downwardly ofthe base interlining 1 for preventing the interlining 1 from beingstretched more than is necessary. The base interlining 1 is providedwith a suitable number of transverse slits 5 formed in spaced rows oneabove another, said slits being shown herein as horizontal ones. Theseslits are left cut open without being seamed. The slits 5 are formedbeforehand in suitable numbers and length after necessary verticalstretchability is taken into full consideration. However, it is ageneral and proper practice to form four slits on a breast portion 11and three slits on a skirt portion 12. Furthermore, as shown, there isprovided a spacious portion including no slit therein between the breastportion 11 and the skirt portion 12, said spacious portion 10 being aposition corresponding to a waistline. As a backside interlining 2 isgenerally used a woven fabric having no transverse tension such as ahaircloth interlining and transverse slits 5 similar to those in thebase interlining 1 are formed in the backside interlining 2. As abackside interlining 3 is generally used felt having no slit formedtherein for improving the contact of the base interlining 1 with theouter fabric. Also, as a backside interlining 3 is, as described, used apiece of bias sleek cloth without slits being formed therein. But incase the backside interlining 2 is made of a fabric having verticalstretchability like the bias sleek cloth, the slits may be dispensedwith.

Since the processed interlining 9 of the invention is of theconstruction described in which a suitable number of horizontal slits 5are formed in spaced rows one above another, the interlining 9 isutterly flat without anything special being applied thereto, and yet itfreely permits vertical stretching of the base interlining 1 over aconsiderable area because of the slits 5 formed in the upper and lowerportions of the interlining 9. Ancordingly, when the base interlining 1is placed together with the likewise stretchable backside interlinings2, 3 and 3 flat on the backside of an outer fabric S in the step ofinterlining operation shown in FIG. 5 and the processed interlining 9 ofthe invention is sewn to the outer fabric S along a line of sewing 6along which the interlining 9 is to be sewn to an outer fabric, theprocessed interlining 9 makes it possible for the outer fabric S havingthe interlining 9 sewn thereto to freely produce the swelling requiredof the outer fabric S within the range of vertical stretching permittedby the slits 5 formed in the processed interlining 9 of the invention.Accordingly, if the number, length, and direction of the slits 5 areselected in anticipation of all possible forms of swellings to beproduced, garment makers are relieved of the trouble and waste of moneywith which they have to keep a large stock of processed interlinings andcan produce all forms of swellings in a garment by use of only oneprocessed interlining 9, thereby making a garment that fits a man of anyposture by dint of a naturally formed swelling adapted to any position.Furthermore, since the processed interlining 9 of the invention is madeof warp 7 which is intersected everywhere by horizontal slits 5 evenwhen it absorbs water in washing or becomes worn out, the garment linedwith the interlining 9 does not get out of shape because the interlining9 is not shrunk in the direction of warp. Moreover, since theinterlining 9 of the invention is sewn to an outer fabric S in a flatstate, sewing operation can be easily performed. Another feature of theinvention is that the interlining 9 has no dart formed therein and thattherefore interlining operation with respect to the outer fabric can beeasily performed by squaring the interlining 9 with the outer fabric ona shoulder portion alone, thus not only interlining operation beingfacilitated but also storage of interlinings over a long period of timedoes not bring a garment out of shape, and moveover garment makers arerelieved of the trouble of stitching up darts, which, ,in turn, makesthe production of interlining itself sufiiciently easy to place it on amass production level.

This invention eradicates the disadvantages inherent in prior artprocessed interlinings and provides the advantages of the kinddescribed.

The description above has been made with reference to a preferredembodiment of the invention, but it should be understood that thefollowing modifications can be made in the invention.

(1) The slits in the base interlining need not always be horizontal orsimilar ones but may be formed into sloping ones. See FIG. 9.

(2) The slits in the base interlining may be formed by cutting theinterlining on the edge, leaving suitable length and width of each slitopen and seaming the other portion of the slit as is shown in FIG. 6.

(3) The base interlining may be made of a nonwoven fabric besides awarp-weft woven fabric.

(4) In the case of the modification referred to in point 1 in whichslits may be formed in a sloping relation with respect to the baseinterlining, a backside interlining having no slit formed therein may beused and the weft of said backside interlining may be placed in parallelto the sloping slits of the base interlining, thereby reinforcing thebase interlining in a transverse (sloping) direction.

(5) The backside interlining need not necessarily be used in the form oftwo sheets but may be one sheet in so far as some other suitablereinforcing means is employed. But in this case said one sheet must bevertically stretchable.

(6) The backside interlining is to be a fabric selected from a group ofa haircloth interlining, felt, bias sleek cloth, and nonwoven fabric.

(7) The number of interlinings may be only one sheet when a baseinterlining is sufficient in strength or when there is no need of strongreinforcement.

(8) A suitable combination of the modifications referred to above orchanges and modifications may be made in the structure of the processedinterlining of the invention without departing from the scope and spiritof the invention as will hereinafter be claimed.

As described, the processed interlining provided by this invention isvery useful as an interlining for improving the appearance of andstrengthening the structure of various types of garments, such as mcnssuit, womens dress, childrens wear and the like.

What I claim is:

1. A processed interlining for a garment adapted to be sewn to thebackside of the outer fabric of the garment to provide the garment withthe desired shape in the torso covering area, the processed interliningbeing elongated, normally flat and stretchable in the longitudinaldirection thereof and comprising at least one elongated, normally fiatbase interlining being stretchable in the longitudinal directionthereof, said base interlining having at least one group of a pluralityof rows of open slits at one end thereof defining a breast-shape formingportion, at least one group of a plurality of rows of open slits at theother end thereof defining a skirt-shape forming portion and a waistportion therebetween free from slits, said rows and the slits thereinbeing transverse to said longitudinal direction, each of said groups ofrows being arranged to produce a swelling of the desired shape when theprocessed interlining is sewn to the outer fabric while stretched in thelongitudinal direction.

2. A processed interlining for a garment according to claim 1 in whichat least one elongated backside interlining stretchable in thelongitudinal direction is sewn integrally to the backside of said baseinterlining.

3. In a garment portion comprising an outer fabric sewed to a processedinterlining, the processed interlining providing the garment portionwith the desired shape, the improvement which consists of an elongated,longitudinally stretched processed interlining having open slits andbeing sewn to the outer fabric to maintain the processed interlining inthe stretched condition, the processed interlining being elongated,normally fiat and stretchable in the longitudinal direction thereof andcomprising at least one elongated, normally flat base interlining beingstretchable in the longitudinal direction thereof, said base interlininghaving at least one group of a plurality of rows of open slits, saidrows and the slits therein being transverse to said longitudinaldirection, each of said groups of rows being arranged to produce aswelling of the desired shape when the processed interlining isstretched in the longitudinal direction.

4. The garment portion according to claim 3 in which said slits areperpendicular to said longitudinal direction.

5. The garment according to claim 3 in which said slits are formed at anangle to said longitudinal direction.

'6. The garment portion according to claim 3 in which said slits are notcontinued to any of the longitudinal edges of the base interlining.

7. The garment portion according to claim 3 in which said slits arecontinued to either of the longitudinal edges of the base interliningand the slits on said either of the longitudinal edges are sewn togetherwith suitable widths of openings of the slits remote from said edge leftopen.

8. The garment portion according to claim 3 in which said baseinterlining has a breast-shape forming portion at one end and askirt-shape forming portion at the other end and a waist portiontherebetween, said slits being provided in suitable numbers both on thebreast portion and on the skirt portion, and no slits are provided inthe waist portion.

9. The garment portion according to claim 3 in which said baseinterlining is made of a warp-weft woven fabric.

10. The garment portion according to claim 3 in which said baseinterlining is made of a non-woven fabric.

11. The garment portion according to claim 3 in which at least oneelongated backside interlining stretchable in the longitudinal directionis sewn integrally to the backside of said base interlining.

12. A processed interlining for a garment according to claim 11 in whichsaid backside interlining is at least one sheet selected from awarp-weft woven or nonwoven fabric and transverse slits similar to thoseof the base interlining are provided therein.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,346,318 4/1944 Marx 69212,735,426 2/1956 Claydon 161117UX 2,800,423 7/1957 De Swart 161--1l2XFOREIGN PATENTS 537,436 2/1957 Canada 2-243 1,062,516 12/1953 France2-243 ALFRED R. GUEST, Primary Examiner UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICECERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION Patent No. 3,585,645 Dated June 22, 1221Inventor(s) TOShihirO Mbriwaki It is certified that error appeera in theabove-identified patent and that said Letters Patent are herebycorrected as shown below:

Column 1, line 4, after "assignor" insert Of a 50% interest Signed andsealed this 7th day of December 1971 EAL) Attest:

ROBERT GOTTSCHALK EDWFW M.WLEWUHWH,JH.

Acting Commissioner of Patents &tt "ting Officer

